Wednesday, January 2, 2008

i decided to run away from osaka and go to nara today. nara koen was where i spent all my time until now that i am nestled in the hostel. nara koen houses many of the most impressive temples in japan, some that were originally here and some, that were brought here from elsewhere. originally, it was swampland but has now been converted into one of the most culturally rich areas in japan.
the first thing you notice about the park is the deer. the japanese people seem to love them, children frollicing around them, sweet old ladies run stalls with especially made deer biscuits, adults and children alike seem to cherish their animalian company, though it is very obvious what the deer are after and are willing to enjoy a one-sided emotionally-loaded interaction if there are deer buscuits at the end
but it did remind me of some haiku i read on the plane about deer and bashyos *the poet i mentioned before* expressions of them being the messengers of the gods, and the coincidence he found when in this area in being blessed with the sight of a foe being born on buddahs birthday.
the second thing i notice, i am not sure if it is the same all year round, is the sheer number of people within the park. the majority of which are japanese. after talking to my obaa-chan (grandmother) room mate thisafternoon i learnt that this is the time of year that many famililes from the region take a shinto-rrelated holiday to the temples. it is customary to do so, and it seems much like easter with us, people give in to religious stigma for a day. whilst i felt somewhat disappointed at first with the hoards surrounding me, i slowly warmed to them. i realized that, although these monuments would be great to behold alone, that is not what they were created for. temples and shrines are places for the people, and watching japanese people of all ages, including cool young teenage couples, participate in this structured religous ritual was very interesting.
anyway, so the park has two main attractions: do-butsu-den 大仏伝 (the great buddah hall) housed within todai-ji 東大寺 and kasuga taisha 春日 大社. i began however, in a less significant sight close to the station where kofuku-ji 興福寺 pagoda and some other small temple existed. its funny, i was impressed enough with this site and most of the things here were not even on the map.























*sorry i cant flip them?! だめ!!

i tried to skip around the crowds and headed around the back of one of the larger temples to sttumble upon this cute little pagoda and a grave. japanese graveyards facinate me, they are all so happy, and mossy and natural, nestled into grassy litle nooks. and often, they are decorated in fabrics and clothing. seems so much lighter, more caring than our habit of dumping the dead under a heavy stone somewhere far away to be forgotten.

































i then followed the path down past a lake then onto the larger kasuga shrine, which was actually more of a shrine complex. i enjoyed kasuga very litle and took no photos, it seemed to be more of a temple filled with vendors selling trinkets. new year charms and prays, its amazing how all these merchandises spring up around religion. anyway, year of the rat so lots of rats.

the more impressive part of kasuga were the winding forest paths, scattered with lanterns and smaller organge shrines, shining out through the pines. it is so lush and green here, everything is covered in moss, it gives everything this timeless feeling.

ha, the timelessness is somewhat broken however by sights such as that below *haha, this made me giggle* and guys with megaphones in beastie-boy-esque jump suits yelling polite commands at the hoards.









































i then followed down to the main attraction you could say, which is todai-ji and dobutsu-den. very impressive, to say the least. and again, its the quirky things people do associated with this place that makes it interesting. there is a folk tale that, if one can pass through the buddahs nostril one is assured enlightenment. so, in one of the supporting podiums a hole has been cut the size of the daibutsus nostril. a que formed on one side and families, adults and teenagers alike are lined up, some with strategies, some not needing them, to force their bodies through to ensured enlightenment. very cute


























after all this my stomach was empty, and whilst the takoyaki vendors lining the streets were very tempting, i read that naramachi - the old town area- had some great restuarants and bars. the streets were all so narrow, and the buildings so similar but i am always amazed at the individuality of every nook and corner. i ate in a really cute cafe, and realized yet again how keen i am on the japanese style lunch and dinner sets. today i had some sort of stewed chicken - which was amazing - a soup, broccoli, soft tofu, rice and tea. and thus, i sat resting my legs and enjoying my murakami - a japanese author who i am reading now = identifying with his bachelor character on dates in similar cafes.

so now, my second hostel experience. japanese hostels so far are definatly a class of their own. this one is playing some kind of music-box tinkling at all hours so far, elevator music that follows you out of the elevator. but, there is free internet,beer in the coke-machine and a very comfy bed so no complaints. i just wish i could speak more fluently so i could get more stories out of obaa-chan my room mate!

so, for today, i hope you enjoyed my photos, oyasuminasai!!

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